As most of you reading this know already , I spend a good amount of time up in the air aka, I fly a lot. “Ryan’s Travels” would be a whole lot less exciting if I didn’t fly as much as I do. Needless to say I am very comfortable in commercial aircraft. I would like to emphasize the term ‘commercial aircraft,’ as I would like to point out that I’m not very comfortable in small single engine light aircraft, you know the ones that you always hear about crashing… It’s all fun and games in those things until the slightest updraft or downdraft or whatever draft it is occurs that sends my stomach and intestines up into my throat. Oh ya, the take off and landing part is very unnerving as well. I just expect these little tinplanes to catch a wheel wrong and go tumbling. Unfortunately for me, small light aircraft is the go to method of transport out here in Botswana, and the majority of Africa to be honest. We are jamming in these bush planes to fly to whatever camp is beyond the reasonable reach of a vehicle. The take off and landing strips are made up entirely of dirt and you’re lucky to find some hard packed spots scattered amongst the giraffe poop and the potholes! Welcome to Ryan’s Travels: Botswana .
I don’t want to paint a bad picture to anyone and scare off a potential visitor, they say there hasn’t been a crash as far back as anyone can remember and there are flights coming in and out daily. Plus, what’s an adventure to Africa without a little excitement! Have I mentioned yet that there are wild animals roaming around freely and in abundance? After arrival from our bush plane and an Indian Jones like landing, we are taken, via open seated safari wagon, to a lodge in the middle of nowhere. We weave through a network of unimaginable sand/dirt roads to find our home for the next two nights. The Savute Lodge is an oasis situated inside of the Chobe National Park. There is a watering hole just out front of the lodge that is frequented by herds of elephants and the occasional, lonesome, lost hippo.
Animal sightings Chobe:
Big cats have to be some of the laziest predators you’ll ever come across. They should give lions the title “Kings of Laziness” rather than the “King of the Jungle.” Lions sleep for up to 20 hours, especially after they have eaten. We would roll up to lions and half the time they wouldn’t even look at us. Mostly they just snooze while listening to the calming buzz of camera shutters firing from honky passenger trucks. At one point, we drove up on three female lionesses napping under a tree after a big meal. They were right along side of the road so we were able to get about 15 feet from them and snap some great photos. I’m sure if they weren’t so lazy the three of them could have made quick work of the five of us sitting in the car armed with only sunscreen, water bottles and camera equipment, surely no match. The most action we got from the lions on this trip was when a male and his wife/mate/girlfriend (not sure which is the proper nomenclature) wandered over to a watering hole for a drink and a bull elephant decided there wasn’t enough to share. That day, the elephant was the true king of the jungle. We had front row seats to the standoff.
After two days at Chobe and the Savute camp, we were headed for a change of scenery . After driving off an elephant from the landing strip, it was back in the air for a 30 minute flight over to the Okavango Delta. Another happy landing later and we were greeted by Jacob, our driver for the next three days from the Kwara Camp. I thought that the Savute Lodge was out there, but this place takes the cake. We were taken to a tented camp where our “rooms” were on raised up on stilts. The walls were made of a weather resistant canvas and the windows and doors were made of netting. The doors had locks on both the inside and outside. The locks on the outside were for whenever we were not in the room so that the baboons wouldn’t run a racket in the rooms. Apparently, if they get the chance, underwear are their favorite to play with! Although the room resembled a tent from the outside, the inside had all the amenities of an upscale hotel room. His/hers sinks, closets, duvet covered beds (who would need a comforter out here?), balcony and an outdoor shower.
The camp sat right on a little pond that had a herd of hippo who regularly belched, farted and made noises that resembled a sound that Jamba the Hut would make. This place was definitely more secluded than the first lodge/camp. There were no fences to keep animals out so we were frequently visited by impala, giraffe, warthogs, monkeys. There was a never ending battle between a troop of baboons and the staff. It usually ended in one of them running off with a handful of garbage and or some table scraps. Often times they would team up with the vervet monkeys and throw seed pods and berries at us from the trees above the main lodge. The Okanavga Delta is naturally wetter than the rest of the game parks in Botswana. However, the terrain can change so dramatically that at one point we are at an impassable marsh, while other times we are driving through what resembled a barren desert. This terrain also allowed us to have access to more types of activities. We went on a canoe ride around the pond, navigating our way around the hippos. We also went on a motor boat ride through the winding channels that made up the Delta. At one point we actually came around a sharp corner and almost ran into four hippos who were more than a little upset at our intrusion. Hippo are actually one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and I can see why. They are very territorial and they don’t like trespassers. Not to mention they can hold their breath for 4-5 minutes and the run along the bottom of the water and jump attack boater with mouths equipped with two foot long spear tipped teeth hinged on a jaw that can open nearly 180°. Apparently our boat captain had lost one boat once before when a hippo bit the bottom of the boat. His teeth punctured two holes in the bottom of the boat and it sank. The passengers, although wet, escaped unharmed. I’m a strong swimmer, and my motto out in the wilderness is, as long as I can swim or run faster than the person next to me, I’ll make it out alive… or I’ll just delay the inevitable. Regardless, I didn’t want to swim
today.
You’re never guaranteed anything when doing game drives, so always stay positive when bouncing around in the back of a Toyota Land Cruiser. That’s just a little disclaimer for anyone headed off on a safari. This group of game drives trumped the Chobe experience by far!! We saw double of pretty much every bit of big game. We watched wild dogs as the hunted and took down a baby impala. Watching a dog kill reminded me of watching a zombie movie where they’re all starving for brains. These dogs have no mercy and just ripped this poor thing into shreds. As soon as their teeth sink in, they are eating, regardless of whether or not the animal has died yet. It is much more gruesome than the way the cats hunt and eat. Cats (leopard, cheetah, lion) are stalking hunters. They use the element of surprise and try to kill their prey quickly and efficiently. Afterwards, cats will drag their prey to their families or up in a tree and consume it over time, depending on the size of the kill. We watched a pair of lions eat a freshly killed wildebeest over the course of two days (freshly killed in the sense that the lions still had blood covering their faces, we didn’t actually see the animal get taken down).
We stayed at the Kwara Camp for three nights before heading to our final Botswana residence, Stanley’s Camp. All we knew about Stanley’s camp was that it was known for an elephant sanctuary of some sort. And, apparently, it was a bit swankier than the previous two camps. Well, the runway was in much better condition than the previous two, that was for sure. Don’t let me mislead you though, it was still 100% dirt!
The camp was similar in almost every way, except we had ceiling and standing fans inside of our tents, so it made sleeping much nicer. They had a hammock on the outside porch, but I learned quickly that laying in there during the afternoon siesta -the time between morning and evening game drives while the heat was unbearable – was like being in an incubation pod. Laying in it at night would have been a death wish. If the predators didn’t notice you dangling in your meat pod like a worm on a hook, then the myriad of bugs, large and small would most likely fly off with you. So what exactly was the hammock out there for? Still a mystery to me.
…The highlight of this camp was, without a doubt, the elephant encounter they offer. Well, they offer it on behalf of a couple, Doug and Sandi, who rescued a trio of elephants and have raised them since birth. One of their goals is to educate the tourists and give them a nice interaction. The main goal, however, was to help educate the local villagers and their children on the importance of conservation and how to live with wild animals. While the elephant encounter was filled with parlor tricks, albeit they were pretty neat tricks, and was a bit on the touristy side, it was still a fun activity. The main thing is that the animals are well cared for and they weren’t just snatched from the wild and gained up. Too often these animals are exploited and mistreated and this was certainly not the case with these three elephants. I do suggest to anyone who is planning to do any type of wild animal expletive offered by a resort or a local tour agency, please get some insight into the handling and care of the animals. You don’t want to be responsible for encouraging or facilitating animal abuse.
At all three of the camps, in order to get to and from your rooms at night you needed to be escorted by a guide because there were no fences to keep the animals in. With the exception of the first place, Savute, they had a small electric fence but said animals regularly hop or trample over the fences and then get stuck inside. Being escorted was a bit annoying as I felt like a child waiting for a parent at times. I figured it was all part of the allure of being in a secluded camp and there really were no actual threats. On the last night while eating dinner outside, a small cackle of hyena (its fun learning the collective nouns of wild animals) walked up along one of the lodges pathways, stopped about 20 feet from our table and gave us a stare down for a half a minute and figured we weren’t on the menu and continued on into the darkness. Ok, fine, I guess having an escort to my room wasn’t such a bad idea after all.
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